Skilful proponent of modern Scandinavian cooking harnesses nature
The reputation of Björn Frantzén’s restaurant has spread well beyond Sweden’s borders since opening in 2009, winning widespread praise for its modern Scandinavian cooking. Originally known as Frantzén/Lindeberg, it changed its name in 2013 when co-founder and pastry chef Daniel Lindeberg moved to pastures new. Frantzén, whose background includes spells at Chez Nico in London and L’Arpege in Paris, has maintained the same approach since the departure of his friend, focussing on seasonal Scandinavian produce, much of it grown in the restaurant’s own gardens.
The multi-course tasting menu explores flavour and texture with references to Asian cuisine, but with a more playful presentation style. Scallop cooked in its own shell is served with dried roe ‘salt’, goose egg yolk sabayon and black truffle, before a Nordic dashi stock is poured from a teapot in to the empty shell for diners to savour. Signature dish ‘satio tempestas’ changes daily and can contain more than 40 different seasonal vegetables cooked in a variety of ways, while a duo of pigeon dishes takes a beak-to-tail approach by including the liver and heart as well as breast and leg.
The intimate dining room is a pleasantly bright space, although arguably the best seats in the house are those at the dining counter, which flanks the open kitchen.