LAST YEAR'S POSITION 12
YEARS ON THE LIST 3
Skilful and surprising Scandi cooking
The restaurant that was Frantzén/Lindeberg has now become Frantzén by virtue of the departure of Daniel Lindeberg; the pastry chef having said farewell to his friend Björn in May 2013. Over the previous five years the pair had built their bijou restaurant in central Stockholm into not just one of the best in Sweden, but in the world, and it retains a healthy position on this year’s list.
For Frantzén it is business as usual, and much is unchanged about the restaurant under the guidance of just one of its founding fathers. The compact dining room has retained its bright, clean and spartan feel while the cooking continues to blend Nordic ingredients – the majority are from Sweden, including many plucked straight from the restaurant’s own garden – with Asian and Far Eastern flavours.
Dishes often incorporate lesser-used ingredients, including small ‘prologue’ bites such as confit of pig’s head on pork skin; blood and liver pancake with cherries and violet, and galangal root macaron with bird’s liver. Sometimes it even extends to those that are even more challenging – dried reindeer penis, for example – but the kitchen’s dexterous and delicate treatment of its subjects raises them to new levels. Many are also highly involved and carefully constructed, displaying the lightness of touch and acute understanding of flavour for which the restaurant is renowned – even down to the bread, which comes with the restaurant’s signature home-made herb butter.