34

The Bellwood

Tokyo

The Bellwood is Atsushi Suzuki’s homecoming project after six years in New York and Shanghai at, variously, Angel’s Share, Speak Low and Sober Society. His bar, on the edge of Tokyo hipster enclave Kamiyamacho, references Japanese drinking history in decor and drinks, but is every bit the contemporary cocktail spot in presentation, hospitality and technique. The sepia-toned photos, wood-relief finishings and stained glass are a nod to the kind of cafe-bar in which Japan’s cocktail culture blossomed a century ago.

The drinks are grouped according to the flow of dishes in kaiseki, Japan’s formalised multi-course dining structure, running from sakazume appetizers like the Supermoni (sansho-infused Campari, orange juice, cold-brew coffee and tonic) through a ‘grilled’ course with a smoky bloody mary through to the desserts, with Melon Cream Paradise (pisco, pandan, champagne, gorgonzola).

If the food-focused menu whets the appetite, there is a menu that stretches from dashi-flavoured olives to jambalaya − or the house ramen made with sake lees that’s only served for two hours at the end of the night. There is also an inner sanctum with a four-seat omakase sushi restaurant where chef Ayaka Terai serves creative nigiri with cocktails not found on the main menu. Expecting wasabi with your sushi? It’s in your drink.

Contact