Dreyfus

Toronto, Canada

There’s not much room for manoeuvre at this intimate, French-leaning bistro, squeezed into a handsome (if decidedly narrow) Harbord Street townhouse. Make it to your table though, and you won’t be in a hurry to leave: its low-lit, 25-seater dining room was made for long, unhurried dinners, starting with a round of pommes dauphine (bite-sized mashed potato and choux pastry puffs, with trout roe and crème fraiche on the side). The tiny kitchen sends out some big flavours, though it isn’t afraid to keep it simple: bitter leaves with burnt honey and anchovy, say, or cockles and rouille on toast. The menu namechecks farmers like old friends – which many of them are – and showcases some serious technique, with its perfectly-sautéed sweetbreads and airy sabayons. A hand-picked line-up of interesting wines goes way beyond the official list: ask the waiters for a steer, and they’ll happily come back with suggestions.

Key Information

• Average price per person $72
• Dinner: Mon – Sat
• 1 416 323 1385
• Visit Dreyfus's Website

Location

96 Harbord Street, Harbord Village, Toronto, Ontario, M5S 1G6