Bicena

Seoul, South Korea

As restaurant settings go, this one’s pretty epic: the 81st floor of the Lotte World Tower, Korea's tallest building. It would be easy to just coast on the views from its double-height dining room, but chef Jeon Kwang-Sik and his team have far too much talent and ambition. Their nuanced, creative tasting menus start with a glass of pine-needle gamju (rice wine), followed by a series of precision-crafted plates, rooted in the seasons. There could be a snow-crab salad, laced with sesame and tangerine, rich, autumnal dry-aged duck jeok, or a fermented rice cake, layered with striploin and shiitake. Nuruk – fermented rice salt – adds another level of umami, whether it’s used to season dishes or as part of the slow-curing process. Come in the evening, when the city glimmers with light, or book in for lunch, when prices are lower but the standard’s just as high.

Key Information

Location

81F Lotte World Tower, 300 Olympic-ro, Songpa, Seoul, 5551

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