Rintaro

San Francisco, US

On a Mission District backstreet, this cosy izayaka comes highly recommended. Its chef and owner is Kyoto-born, California-raised Sylvan Mishima Brackett, the former creative director at the fabled Chez Panisse. Little wonder, then, that the kitchen sets such store by local, seasonal ingredients, with a menu that’s a Who’s Who of producers: Berkshire pork courtesy of Becker Lane, Hikari Farm mizuna, hook-and-line caught halibut and konbu-cured in-house. Take your seat in the courtyard, dotted with paper lanterns, or claim a reclaimed redwood booth in the dining room, whose hand-planed hinoki cedar bar was made by Brackett’s carpenter father. The food is similarly crafted and considered, from pristine sashimi to smoky, binchotan-grilled skewers. Highlights include the folded omelettes, seasoned with house-made dashi, and the buttery, hand-rolled ‘carbonara’ udon – but if in doubt, say yes to the set menu, with seven sublime, scaled-down courses.

Key Information

Location

82 14th Street, San Francisco, California, 94103

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