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Boragó

Santiago, Chile

50Best Accolades
  • The Best Restaurant in Chile 2020

A journey around Chilean produce from Santiago’s most revered chef

Boragó

On the Pass

Rodolfo Guzmán

What makes it special: Boragó deals in ‘territory rather than technique’, according to chef-owner Rodolfo Guzmán. He and his energetic team source native Chilean products used by the Mapuche indigenous people to create Endémica, a menu starring diverse preparations that can change during the course of an evening according to produce supply, paired with natural and biodynamic wine or juices. Guzmán’s environmentally minded ethos earned Boragó the inaugural Sustainable Restaurant Award in Latin America in 2018.

Discovering endemic Chilean species: Ten years into Boragó and Guzmán’s understanding and timing with respect to when products flourish in particular micro seasons – and how to use them – is greater than ever. Take uvas de montaña, wild grapes (not actually grapes) from the conifer family available for just five weeks a year; they form part of a wild leaf and lamb salad. Or loyo, a giant mushroom with a tiny four-week harvesting window. Besides serving ingredients that many customers have never heard of, Guzmán has also expanded his repertoire. In his own words: “Seven years ago, one ingredient meant one possibility. Today it means 300.”

The space: After nearly a decade in its original location, Boragó relocated in early 2019 to a new home with sweeping views of Cerro Manquehue, the highest peak in Santiago and a perfect backdrop to Guzmán's seasonal and produce-driven cuisine. The new space sits 54 people per service, and it features a culinary centre where Conectáz (see below) and other research magic takes place.

Other projects: In 2017, Guzmán published his first book, Boragó: Coming from the South, a 100-recipe tome. He is also working on Conectáz, Chile’s first encyclopedia categorising and cataloguing Chilean products, at Santiago’s Catholic University, where one fascinating discovery is turning vegetables into protein. In 2020, the chef introduced a delivery service for burgers and ice creams featuring native Chilean ingredients called Muumami.

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