New-wave butchery makes for a modern meat masterclass


On the Pass

Renzo Garibaldi

Chief reason to visit: A butcher’s shop and restaurant rolled into one, Osso is the place to go in Lima for all the best cuts, from perfectly cooked ribeye to flavoured sausages (think cheddar, rocotó pepper marmalade and limo chilli), with almost everything grilled over the barbecue. Casual, noisy and rustic, this is a joint to get your hands dirty and become at one with your carnivorous self.

What’s the story? It all started when chef Renzo Garibaldi’s wife Andrea signed him up for a masterclass in San Francisco with meat maestro Ryan Farr in 2010; he then spent the next three years learning about sustainable butchery in the US and France, developing ideas for his restaurant.

What’s on the menu? Typical dishes include Osso carpaccio, deconstructed cutlets, artisanal hamburgers and the signature wagyu steak tartare, prepared with spring onion, Maras salt and an egg yolk.

Back to the origins: The pandemic offered a chance for Garibaldi to analyse his priorities and, in 2020, he re-opened the one-table concept that first brought him to fame. Now, as his restaurant turns 10 years old, the chef serves a daily tasting menu for only 12 people sitting at a communal table. The larger, slightly more informal restaurant is always open next door with an à la carte menu.