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Californios

San Francisco

Unparalleled Mexican fine dining melding California’s Mexican roots

What's in a name? Opening in 2015 in a bijous Mission District space before eventually moving to its current, larger SoMa digs, the name Californios refers to Mexican and Spanish explorers who helped establish what is now California in the late 1700s. Chef Val Cantú draws from his Mexican roots, California's history and the spoils of the land (each farmer and purveyor is named on the menu) with a vibrant showcase of ingredients displayed tableside in multiple varieties before arriving in dishes.

Corn masters: In the kitchen, Californios nixtamalises corn, the alkaline soaking allowing for maximum flavour. In the dining room, to kick off the menu, a box of multi-coloured dried corn is presented to diners before multiple courses using masa featuring each type of corn is showcased. Expect native Mexican maize in reds, purples and beyond, including conico morado, bolito azul and cacahuazintle.

Bold takes: One of Californios' signature bites is a tribute to the chilapita from Guerrero, Mexico. The corn alone sings in a tiny Tierra Vegetables Farm masa negra corn tartlet filled with cranberry bean mousse and chive serrano salsa, topped with Californios' own Tsar Nicoulai estate caviar. Each course expresses maximum flavour, showcasing the earth and soul of Mexico and California's roots.

Artful space: Muted grays, white tablecloths and potted palms set a neutral backdrop for vivid artwork and books from chef Cantú's personal library lining a lofty dining room and bar.

Sweet tooth: Californios' team includes highly skilled pastry chef Kelli Huerta. For mignardises, Huerta plays with a house version of the ubiquitous Abuelito hot chocolate and creates bites like dark chocolate tacos filled with cookies and cream coconut gelato or tamarindo raspberry paletas in lime spun sugar, dusted in a raspberry chile morita Tajin.

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