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Le Bernardin

New York

Fish-focused French with distinct New York finesse

A brief history: Established in Paris in 1972 by brother and sister Gilbert and Maguy Le Coze, Le Bernardin expanded to New York in 1986. Decorated chef Eric Ripert has run the kitchen for more than 20 years, following the untimely passing of Gilbert.

What to order: Le Bernardin offers several menu options. The classic four-course dinner menu is split into four sections – almost raw, barely touched, lightly cooked and 'upon request' – with dishes marrying French and global influences, especially those from Asia. Think thinly pounded Yellowfin tuna with foie gras, toasted baguette and chives; or steamed lobster, kumquat and charred cucumber with a spiced shellfish-citrus broth. There is also a popular vegetarian tasting menu, but those looking for the most complete experience should opt for the chef's menu, featuring the classics and Ripert's personal favourites.

What's the vibe? The dining room is a comfortable, modern space with waiters in Nehru-style jackets carefully presiding over the white tablecloth dining room's well-heeled clientele. Soft jazz plays, there are soft spotlights that illuminate each dish picture perfectly, and there's a murmur of soft conversation from fellow diners. The service is impeccable, bordering on telepathic.

A word on wine: Le Bernardin's long-time wine director Aldo Sohm has earned a reputation as one of Manhattan's top sommeliers, having received the James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine Service in 2009. Expanding on Le Bernardin's French-focused list of wines that complement fish, in 2014 he and Ripert opened upscale Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, just steps away.

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