Zhang Yong

Beijing

A proponent of Chinese fine dining who proves the value of playing the long game

Zhang Yong doesn't seek the limelight, yet as arguably China's most acclaimed restaurateur, he has quietly become one of the Asian culinary scene's noteworthy figures.

The restaurateur's first venture into restaurants was a modest one: in 1995, he opened Xin Rong Ji, a small seafood stall in Taizhou, a coastal city south of Shanghai. From the beginning, the stall distinguished itself from others thanks to its commitment to high-quality products – a commitment which remains central to the brand to this day.

From these humble beginnings was born a true restaurant kingdom, with some 30 locations across Chinese cities like Taizhou, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Beijing, and an international outpost in Tokyo. Choosing to build slowly rather than relying on large injections of capital from external entities, Zhang Yong has taken a considered approach to the design and feel of each new branch, rather than simply replicating the original formula.

The expansion of Xin Rong Ji has been credited with increased interest in and appreciation of Taizhou cuisine, which is not recognised as one of China's eight great cuisines. The restaurants are noted for their use of seafood and focus on local produce, with braised yellow croaker one of the signature dishes.

Xin Rong Ji has achieved extraordinary acclaim over the years. The flagship location on Xinyuan South Road in Beijing holds three Michelin stars and the restaurant group holds an impressive 10 stars, a level of recognition that puts Zhang Yong in the upper echelon of global restaurateurs like Joël Robuchon, Alain Ducasse and Pierre Gagnaire.

For his sustained success and tireless championing of Taizhou cuisine, Zhang Yong is the well-deserved winner of the Icon Award, as part of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2026.

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