Berlin, Germany

Unfussy to the point of sparse, this concrete cube doesn’t do decoration other than a shelf of natural wines and house-made ferments. It really is all about cool, contemporary German flavours sourced locally and served on hand-thrown ceramics. Chef Vadim Otto Ursus trained in Scandinavia, Portugal and Mexico before returning to his roots – he grew up in the Prenzlauer Berg district a few minutes’ drive north of the restaurant – and there’s something radical about his dedication to simplicity. At lunch, best enjoyed on their terrace on one of east Berlin’s most attractive streets, he serves a choice of just two dishes alongside sourdough bread and seasonal sides. In the evening, the menu is elevated by unusual ingredients produced in the restaurant’s very own test kitchen, located in an old GDR bungalow in a nature reserve to the north of the city: buckwheat honey, fermented trout and wild boar nduja are all. In the evenings, young Australian sommelier Cate Gowers opens a large selection of natural wines from

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Oderberger Str. 56, Gleimviertel, Berlin, 10435