São Paulo, Brazil

Italian-influenced cooking from one of Brazil’s hottest young chefs


On the Pass

Luiz Filipe Souza

Pastry Chef

Bianca Mirabili

Meet the chef: Luiz Filipe Souza opened Evvai in São Paulo’s upmarket Jardins neighbourhood in 2017, after training in Italian restaurants including Fasano and Piselli in São Paulo and Reale Casadonna in Castel di Sangro. In 2018, he represented Brazil in the Bocuse d'Or international cookery competition, reaching the finals in Lyon.

Cozinha Oriundi: Souza calls his cuisine ‘Oriundi’, an Italian word referring to immigrants and descendants of Italy all over the world. Using Brazilian produce, he reinterprets immigrant-inspired dishes such as beef tartare with trout eggs from the state of Santa Catarina, or fresh tuna with homemade buffalo stracciatella.

On the menu: Evvai’s à la carte offers Italian-style snacks, antipasti, pasta, meat and fish, and a version of the classic tiramisu dessert. For an overall experience, the five- or nine-course tasting menus work through signature dishes such as the foie gras lollipop, smoked pumpkin bonbons and porcini ravioli. Don’t miss the sourdough bread selection with seven types of butter, and the signature dessert featuring Brazilian honey and chocolate.

The vibe: A row of cosy banquette seating lines one wall of the intimate restaurant, with larger tables set out down the centre of the dining room, all offering a glimpse of the open kitchen. There’s a superb wine list and classic and creative cocktails such as negronis or chai-infused gin.

Bonus point: In 2019, Souza and his business partner Fábio Moon opened Fat Cow, a fast-food restaurant inspired by 1980s burger joints, with dishes such as the Gangnam Style burger, which comes with caramelised onions and fermented Korean sauce.