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Alma Fonda Fina

Denver

A heartfelt homage to Mexico’s culinary heritage

Soul food: After years of excelling in other people's kitchens – including his own father's while growing up in Guadalajara, Mexico – Johnny Curiel finally stepped into the spotlight in late 2023, when he and his wife, Kasie, opened this highly polished yet deeply personal showcase of contemporary Mexican cuisine to immediate acclaim. Alma means 'soul' in Spanish, while Fonda means 'casual gathering spot'. Combined, they capture the essence of Alma in all its lively, earth-toned warmth.

Best seat in the house: Though every table is a good one due to the dining room's snug size, its beating heart is the eight-seat chefs' counter, where guests can interact directly with Curiel's crew as they explain the traditions and inspirations behind each dish. The team also offer dining tips such as mixing a shot of mezcal into the serrano ponzu and tomato butter that bathe the Hokkaido scallop.

Mix and match: The short menu is divided into four sections: starters, crudos, masa-based dishes, and large plates meant for sharing. Those in the know order (at least) one dish from each. Agave-roasted sweet potato with broken salsa macha and fennel-whipped requesón (akin to ricotta) is a signature for a reason, as is adobo-seared hamachi in roasted pineapple puree with tepache oil and salsa seca. For more substantial dishes, think sopes (thick tortillas) with pasilla-braised short rib, salsa verde and crema or halibut in watercress mole verde with pistachio salsa and pickled white onions.

Like that? Try this: With passion, talent, and energy to spare, the Curiels have wasted no time in parlaying their success into other modern Mexican ventures, opening Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, Mezcaleria Alma next door to Alma Fonda Fina, and Alteño in Denver's Cherry Creek neighborhood in quick succession. Remarkably, each is as special and soulful as the last.

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