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Mhel

Toronto

This intimate neighbourhood hangout embodies the spirit of a Japanese izakaya and Korean bar

What makes it special? Mhel is the brainchild of husband-and-wife team Young Hoon Ji and Seung-min Yi, who envisioned a restaurant inspired by the food and drinks they enjoy at home. The couple's first restaurant is an intimate escape from the bustle of Bloorcourt where Korean-Japanese small plates using seasonal local and imported ingredients are served on ceramic dishware from Korea and Japan.

What's in a name? "Mhel is anchovy" is inscribed above a simple fish decal on the restaurant's door – referencing the Jeju dialect spoken in Dangjin, Yi's mother's hometown. More than a staple in Korean and Japanese cuisines, anchovies carry deep personal meaning for the duo. The fish evokes memories of family and traditions, reminding them of village elders who reminisced about cleaning anchovies with their families.

On the menu: Embodying the spirit of a Japanese izakaya and Korean bar, Mhel offers a sake-dominant drink list that's peppered with refreshing sparkling tea alternatives. Here, umami-rich small plates are built around seasonal ingredients from Ontario producers like Aldergrove and Kuramoto Farms, Linton Pasture Pork, Affinity and Oroshi Fish, plus select imports including koshihikari rice. There are staples honouring tradition such as saikyoyaki (miso-marinated fish), Ji's mother's napa cabbage kimchi, a dish simmered in homemade dashi, and purin – a velvety Japanese custard pudding made with Sheldon Creek's cream and Tamarack Farm's maple syrup.

Quaint and intimate atmosphere: The minimal and warm 60-sq.m space features a wood-lined interior and seating for 32 guests, including 12 bar stools lining its open kitchen.

Owners CVs: After honing their craft in Toronto – Ji in the kitchens of Pompette and Grey Gardens, Yi at Early Bird Coffee – the duo spent six months in Seoul, with Ji at seafood-focused Ichie and Yi at Joo Ok in the Plaza Hotel.

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