Copenhagen, Denmark

Pure art on a plate that uses Scandinavia’s seasonal larder as its palette


On the Pass

Rasmus Kofoed

Seasonality personified: Many restaurants align their menu to the changing seasons, but Geranium takes it to the next level. The latest Autumn Universe selection is a case in point, beginning with rich pickings such as Jerusalem artichoke leaves and pickled walnut, and following through into a series of fish and seafood courses, which speak to Chef Rasmus Kofoed’s love for sea-foraging. Squid, melted smoked lard, essence of yeast and potatoes is a true taste of the brackish waters that encapsulate Denmark, while quail with thyme seeds, berries and pickled pine is the only point where meat comes into the 16-course menu.

Food meets art: There are arguably no better chefs in the world than Kofoed at applying beauty to food. He has an intuitive ability to put together truly stunning dishes that make the most of colour, empty space and accurate volume of ingredients, creating synergy between flavour, aestheticism and a sense of flow that runs throughout the menu.

Meet the chef: Rasmus Kofoed is the first chef in Denmark to earn three Michelin stars, which were granted to Geranium in 2016. Kofoed is also the only chef to have ever won the gold, silver and bronze medals at the esteemed global cooking competition the Bocuse d’Or, and his meticulous approach to seasonal Danish cuisine has seen Geranium climb its way up The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list from No.49 in 2012 to No.2 in 2021.

How about the view? Geranium is located it the arguably incongruous location of Denmark’s national soccer stadium. The kitchen windows reveal awesome pitch views (definitely ask for a kitchen tour), while gazing northwards finds panoramic views of the bucolic Fælledparken (Common Gardens), which gives the feel that you are a world away from a Monday night home fixture against arch-rivals Sweden.

Designer drinks: While Kofoed heads up kitchen operations, co-owner Søren Ledet manages the front of house, wine and drinks service. When Geranium opened in 2007, these roles were yet to be defined as both men had backgrounds in the kitchen; Ledet’s innate ability with pairing quickly became obvious and he took over the dining room. Alongside a 2,500-bottle-deep cellar, Geranium also offers a no-alcohol paring featuring juices, kombuchas and extractions that must be the most well-considered in the world. In 2018, Ledet’s dedication to exceptional service saw Geranium win the Art of Hospitality Award.