Four Kings

San Francisco, US

There’s generally a queue outside this Chinatown address, hoping to score a walk-in seat. What started out as a pop-up has become one of the city’s hottest tables, thanks to chefs Franky Ho and Michael Long’s incendiary Cantonese cooking. The vibe is casual and welcoming, with a minimum of fuss and frills: think 90s Cantopop tunes, Polaroid snaps on the walls, and a dining room that – though always packed – couldn’t be described as fancy. Complimentary peanuts and smashed cucumbers accompany the cartoon-doodled menu, whose must-tries include escargots with XO butter and Chinese sausage-studded claypot rice. The fried squab’s another non-negotiable, crisp-skinned and perfectly seasoned, along with the Singapore-style chilli crab, perched on a pile of milk-bread rolls. Carafes of shochu and sake keep the good times rolling, along with a handful of cocktails, wines and interesting Asian beers. To avoid the queue, book ahead: reservations open at noon, three weeks in advance.

Key Information

• Average price per person $47
• Dinner: Thurs – Sun
• 415 688 1500
• Visit Four Kings's Website

Location

710 Commercial Street, Chinatown, San Francisco, 94108