San Francisco, US

Conceptualised by Joshua Skenes and now stewarded by culinary director Paul Chung and chef de cuisine Richard Lee, Saison is inextricably linked to fire. A quick glance towards the open kitchen reveals many ingredients bathing in flames directly over the grill, and others being warmed over barely smouldering embers. Every dish on the lengthy tasting menu includes at least one element that tastes of the hearth, right down to the smoked caramel dripping over the ice cream finishing the meal. The juxtaposition of primal cooking techniques and the sleek modernity of the dining room is exhilarating at this 50 Best regular.

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178 Townsend Street, SoMa, San Francisco, CA 94107