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Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler

Brunico

Nature-focused Tyrolean chef bringing his ‘cook the mountain’ philosophy to exquisite life

On the Pass

Mauro Siega

Pastry Chef

Alessio Billeci

Scene setting: The small town of Brunico sits in a lush valley beneath the meeting point of the Alps and the Dolomites. In 2023, local chef Norbert Niederkofler relocated from his previous St Hubertus hotel-restaurant in a neighbouring valley to new premises in a 19th century villa, formerly part of the Moessmer textile production complex. The space has been redesigned with an emphasis on discreet luxury, including the addition of a modernist glass-walled extension housing the open kitchen and counter seating area.

Chef as nurturer: Niederkofler has forged an enviable reputation over many decades, both within and beyond the kitchen. While his benign presence permeates Atelier Moessmer, executive chef Mauro Siega and sommelier-manager Lukas Gerges lead a talented and youthful team in daily operations. At the same time, Niederkofler’s established ‘cook the mountain’ philosophy – which permits only the use of hyper-local Tyrolean terroir ingredients – drives every aspect of the restaurant’s sustainability-forward culinary narrative.

The dining experience: Guests first ring a doorbell before being invited into the villa, emphasising the private family feel. Snacks are served in the bar-lounge area, before different courses are presented in a variety of rooms, on the garden terrace and at the kitchen counter. The charming team judge how much detail to deliver on the dishes and wines. The simply named dishes – Spring Salad, Tyrolean Beef, Mountain Cheesecake – belie serious complexity, cutting-edge techniques and, most importantly, fascinating flavour combinations. Long-time signatures include singular versions of beetroot gnocchi and tarte tatin that can be added to the super-seasonal 12-course tasting menu.

Above and beyond: Niederkofler oversees numerous projects outside the walls of Atelier Moessmer, including AlpiNN by Norbert Niederkofler – a stunning three-in-one restaurant (lounge-bar area; a la carte dining room; tasting menu space) on the slopes of Plan de Corones ski area, perched at an altitude of 2,235m. Furthermore, he founded Care, an annual event centred around ethical cooking, helped curate a degree course in gastronomy at the University of Bolzan, heads an academy scheme to train young, mostly female chefs in Saudi Arabia and is campaigning for the reform of school meals in Italy.

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