Entering the light-flooded dining room on the eight floor of Copenhagen’s national soccer stadium is the first step of a dining experience that favours the warm and the approachable over anything else. Chef Rasmus Kofoed and sommelier-cum-restaurateur Søren Ledet have crafted a masterful experience that sees guests stepping into a different world for a few hours.
Together, Kofoed and Ledet count an impressive amount of accolades – the former is the only chef to have ever won bronze, silver and gold at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or cooking competition in France, while the latter won Wine Spectator’s Grand Award in 2017. It is not surprising, then, that a meal at Geranium runs like a smoothly oiled machine, making guests feel as relaxed and unrushed as they are well looked after.
When they opened Geranium in 2007, both Kofoed and Ledet were trained chefs, keen to make the most of their talents in the kitchen by taking turns at the stove. But as the weeks went by, Ledet found himself more and more comfortable in the dining room, as well as more passionate about wine, eventually leaving the kitchen to commit full-time to these two areas.
Ledet’s unique touches smoothen and enhance the dining experience – from the attentive welcome by the staff to the move to a different room after the savoury courses have been served. Able to relax in a purpose-built sitting room, guests can take their time enjoying the sweet courses and digestives, which may include prunes with dark beer, cream and beech wood, or the signature beeswax and pollen ice cream with rhubarb.
Kofoed and Ledet also pay special attention to those guests with allergies or intolerances, ensuring they can enjoy the experience as much as their dining companions. The gluten-free bread course, for instance, consists of rich and golden rolls crowned with cracked seeds, worthy of envy even from the gluten-tolerant.
As well as enjoying the restaurant’s open and sleek layout, guests can observe the work of the chefs in the kitchen. The experience is only complete with Ledet’s wine pairing, the result of years of training and research as a sommelier. The natural-leaning and often organic selection was a first in Copenhagen when it was introduced to Geranium in 2007, and it has since evolved from 350 to 2,500 bottles.
Ledet’s experience as a chef puts him in a perfect position not only to help diners understand Kofoed’s seasonal Scandinavian menu while roaming the dining room, but also to pair and offer the best wine with each dish, gently leading the guests towards the finest bottles while listening to their preferences and taste inclinations.
The combination of Kofoed’s delicate and beautiful cuisine with Ledet’s expert lead in the dining room and the cellar results in an experience that is warm and spontaneously relaxed, able to make guests feel so naturally at ease that they forget what is going on around them – a worthy winner of the Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award 2018.
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8
+45 6996 0020
The Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award was introduced in 2016 in collaboration with the Italian winery to celebrate the outstanding work of front-of-house and service teams at restaurants around the world. The category was voted for by the same body of 1,040 worldwide voters that makes up The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy. The first winner of the award was Eleven Madison Park in New York, followed by El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, in 2017.