Chief reason to visit: Daisuke Nakazawa worked for more than a decade under 90-year-old sushi master Jiro Ono – star of the hit documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi – before swapping Japan for the US. The influence of his mentor can be seen in the young chef's obsessive attention to detail and respect for the 200-year-old traditions of Edomae sushi.
On the menu: The 20-plus-course 'omakase' menu changes daily, depending on what Nakazawa finds at the fish market (he cycles there each morning), but could include blow-torched golden eye snapper, spot prawns so fresh that they are still twitching and sweet scallop lifted by a zingy chilli and yuzu paste. Temperature, texture and flavour are balanced with skill and precision.
The setting: There's little about the stark white-tiled space to distract diners from the theatre of Nakazawa and his team as they smoothly slice fish and cup rice in their hands. The high-backed leather chairs at the counter are the best seats in the house, although there’s also a dining room at the back.
Bonus point: Owner Alessandro Borgognone was inspired to open the restaurant after watching Jiro Dreams of Sushi and finding chef Nakazawa on Facebook.
Images: Daniel Krieger
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