The cuisine of the sun interpreted anew by a passionate son of Italy and Argentina
Is that Italy over there? Yes, Mirazur sits on the French side of the riviera, mere steps from the Italian border, and chef Mauro Colagreco says his cuisine owes as much to Italy and his own Argentinian-Italian heritage as to his adopted home country.
What’s the secret? Colagreco’s secret weapon, bolstering his own backyard farm and web of suppliers, is the market of Ventimiglia, a rich source of just-picked heirloom vegetables and sparkling-fresh seafood.
How do those things come together in the kitchen? Picture green beans so tiny, tender and full of sunshine that they steal the show right out from under the (generous) spoonful of caviar they’re served with. Menton’s famous lemons make anchovy fillets set on fried anchovy skeletons pop and sing, while a dish Colagreco simply calls “Green” combines garden peas, fennel and even kiwi fruit in a tribute to freshness.
And what of his signature dish? Oyster with tapioca, shallot cream and pear? A modern classic in the making.